We made it!
We cycled into Beijing in a convoy, dodging the usual bikes and other traffic - to arrive at a busy but cold and overcast Tiananmen Square. Quite a moment-and we felt close and very connected to each other, However - after the required photographs infront of Chairman Mao's larger than life picture- the policeman started to get edgy and wished to move us on. It was too cold to hang around anyway. On to our hotel where celebratory food and drink was waiting, and I then put on a slide show of our journey. It evoked the full range of emotions and we were overwhelmed anew as to just how much groung- literally and figuratively we had covered.
It has been very hectic since arrival with bike packing, changing hotels, dealing with clearing up - and trying to get from A to B by taxis which invariably get lost! So today we are escaping from the hordes and will be cavorting along the Great Wall.
Will get last photos taken in Beijing later....
It is just now time to rejoice and give thanks for life itself
Joan
Thursday, November 13, 2008
Tuesday, November 11, 2008
95 Kilometres to Beijing
Billboards show proud folk
To reach toxic skies
In 24 hours we will be cycling into Tiananmen Square after a journey which started in
It has been an astounding adventure and I feel humbled but invigorated by all the new experiences. We have been through deserts in searing heat. We have huffed and puffed over mountains in pinching cold. We have battled myriads of people, but also been through areas where a single vehicle has caused a stir. The overwhelming impression however of travel across Central Asia and the huge land mass of
This last leg from Xian to
There is no road rage - if there was the roads would be littered with dead bodies...
However- I had to devise some tricks to retain sanity. I tried to find something new to look at every day - and I must admit the "sameness" of these conditions verged on being boring. The roads are often lined with masses of trees- rather dirty and battered - but still green and these encourage the ever present mossie ( house sparrow to non Saffers)
As these little birds tittered and fed on stray bits of corn, they gave me great pleasure. There are also plantings of roses, and other flowers, along with strange statues - all rather grey due to the all pervasive pollution which prevents the sun from lifting the gloom. But I appreciated the attempt at beauty. The air quality has proved a challenge - many of us are coughing, and sniffing- and wondering how this can continue...
My cycling companions as always saved the day. We became masters of "bullshitting"- and covered every conceivable topic while keeping eyes on the road.
So I think at last I have got my head around the fact that
As I read this it sounds a little negative. Not so. What a country this is and as I ride through I have a feeling that it is very definitely a 'Work in Progress" and the rest of the world must keep watch.
I will cycle very carefully tomorrow. I will write again in
Thank you again for coming along with me on this journey
Tree planting en masse
Gives beauty and a green lung
Which sadly still coughs.
Tuesday, November 4, 2008
China facts
China invented-
Paper
Printing
Dynamite
The compass
The Rose is indigenous to China
Excesses in China- ( in my opinion)
Smoking
Spitting
Shouting
Paper
Printing
Dynamite
The compass
The Rose is indigenous to China
Excesses in China- ( in my opinion)
Smoking
Spitting
Shouting
Mao Country
The end of this epic adventure is hurtling fast towards me - and very soon I will be contemplating normal life again ( what ever that may be)
We have only 7 riding days left and on Wednesday 12th November- we will be cycling onto Tiananmen Square in the heart of Beijing. I have been able to ride every single riding day and I am so grateful for such good health and robust psyche!
It is so often that, as the end of a demanding task approaches, it is easy to relax and forget the usual precautions. However, in these last days of cycling, we are acutely aware of all the dangers facing us and we are being super careful. Each riding day now - still about 120km- seems like a hard day at the office. It is not particulasly enjoyable , but getting to the end of it well gives a great sense of achievement and satisfaction.
I have resorted to using my head a little more, thinking and imagining, as all I really see is the road ahead and all the traffic. Distant views are a thing of the past due to the pollution. Today I reflected on Mao and his extraordinary political career. This is because we are cycling through the Province in which he was born - Hunan Province. He was born into a poor farming family in 1893 and he taught in the 1920's in a peasant training institute. He was very sympathetic to the farmers' plight, and being heavily influenced by Marxist thought - he soon began advocating that the only way to replace the old order, was by mass armed uprising. I can now appreciate why he gained a following so quickly. This area is intensively farmed. No land, no crops, no animal dung even, is wasted. Corn cobs and nut shells are dried for fodder. The peasant farmers are tough as nails, reed thin, and seem to work endlessly. Their strenghth seems way out of proportion to their diminutive size. I am sure that they look far older than their years. Modernisation has helped no doubt in many ways - but life still seems tough, dirty, cold and somewhat joyless. And there seems an unfairness to it as it is their foodstuffs which feed the nation. So I escape the harsh reality of this scene into my thoughts knowing that at the day end - I will be comfortable. How tempting Mao's movement and the benefits thereof must have seemed.
Today also was the very first riding day when I took no photographs. Indeed, there were interesting things to record - like the bamboo workshops, but I was in survival mode. It also made me realise that I am so much more drawn to take photos of the natural world - rather than the man made world. So I include alongside a few photos taken yesterday - while the sun was briefly penetrating the smog and the fields were being worked.
I remain continually amazed at the diveresity of crops and the intricate detail with which they are farmed and prepared.
When I next write - I hope I will be very close to Beijing. Thanks again for giving me the excuse to record my wanderings, and thanks as always for the wonderful feedback.
We have only 7 riding days left and on Wednesday 12th November- we will be cycling onto Tiananmen Square in the heart of Beijing. I have been able to ride every single riding day and I am so grateful for such good health and robust psyche!
It is so often that, as the end of a demanding task approaches, it is easy to relax and forget the usual precautions. However, in these last days of cycling, we are acutely aware of all the dangers facing us and we are being super careful. Each riding day now - still about 120km- seems like a hard day at the office. It is not particulasly enjoyable , but getting to the end of it well gives a great sense of achievement and satisfaction.
I have resorted to using my head a little more, thinking and imagining, as all I really see is the road ahead and all the traffic. Distant views are a thing of the past due to the pollution. Today I reflected on Mao and his extraordinary political career. This is because we are cycling through the Province in which he was born - Hunan Province. He was born into a poor farming family in 1893 and he taught in the 1920's in a peasant training institute. He was very sympathetic to the farmers' plight, and being heavily influenced by Marxist thought - he soon began advocating that the only way to replace the old order, was by mass armed uprising. I can now appreciate why he gained a following so quickly. This area is intensively farmed. No land, no crops, no animal dung even, is wasted. Corn cobs and nut shells are dried for fodder. The peasant farmers are tough as nails, reed thin, and seem to work endlessly. Their strenghth seems way out of proportion to their diminutive size. I am sure that they look far older than their years. Modernisation has helped no doubt in many ways - but life still seems tough, dirty, cold and somewhat joyless. And there seems an unfairness to it as it is their foodstuffs which feed the nation. So I escape the harsh reality of this scene into my thoughts knowing that at the day end - I will be comfortable. How tempting Mao's movement and the benefits thereof must have seemed.
Today also was the very first riding day when I took no photographs. Indeed, there were interesting things to record - like the bamboo workshops, but I was in survival mode. It also made me realise that I am so much more drawn to take photos of the natural world - rather than the man made world. So I include alongside a few photos taken yesterday - while the sun was briefly penetrating the smog and the fields were being worked.
I remain continually amazed at the diveresity of crops and the intricate detail with which they are farmed and prepared.
When I next write - I hope I will be very close to Beijing. Thanks again for giving me the excuse to record my wanderings, and thanks as always for the wonderful feedback.
Sunday, November 2, 2008
10 Days to Beijing
This IS the hard part.
The noise on the roads is deafening at times with the honking of horns of all tones and decibels, the penetrating 2 stoke engine noise, construction drills, dynamite explosions, drones of trucks, - and the happy sound of fireworks blowing up to wish the newly weds a happy and long life together!
Villages are a frenzy of activity and extreme concentration and caution is needed to avoid collisions. The police and taxi drivers are sometimes the worst culprits in the dangerous driving stakes.
There is little open space- but what there is is cultivated right up to the road side.
The old folks sit beside their houses in the sun and watch and rest for a while , as they too must push carts and toil to make ends meet. My heart goes out to them. Life has never been in their favour. They survived Mao to now have the benefits they enjoyed with Communism stripped away.
The air is hazy and I cannot take good photos although there are mountains towering to my right.
But still - there is a great pleasure in seeing all this, to really experience and smell it from the seat of a bicycle. I remain astounded by this China and there is still a lot of beauty around - it just needs to be carefully looked for and marvelled at for it has survived through centuries of millions and millions of people
The noise on the roads is deafening at times with the honking of horns of all tones and decibels, the penetrating 2 stoke engine noise, construction drills, dynamite explosions, drones of trucks, - and the happy sound of fireworks blowing up to wish the newly weds a happy and long life together!
Villages are a frenzy of activity and extreme concentration and caution is needed to avoid collisions. The police and taxi drivers are sometimes the worst culprits in the dangerous driving stakes.
There is little open space- but what there is is cultivated right up to the road side.
The old folks sit beside their houses in the sun and watch and rest for a while , as they too must push carts and toil to make ends meet. My heart goes out to them. Life has never been in their favour. They survived Mao to now have the benefits they enjoyed with Communism stripped away.
The air is hazy and I cannot take good photos although there are mountains towering to my right.
But still - there is a great pleasure in seeing all this, to really experience and smell it from the seat of a bicycle. I remain astounded by this China and there is still a lot of beauty around - it just needs to be carefully looked for and marvelled at for it has survived through centuries of millions and millions of people
Thursday, October 30, 2008
Xi'an-ancient capital of China
Our entry into this massive city of millions of busy people, was seriously hazardous to say the least. There are road rules - on paper only - and anything goes. Cars, trucks, busses, bikes, 3 wheelers, scooters and pedestrians vie for the available gap. The trick seems to be to keep a steady forward pace, make no sudden moves, avoid eye contact- and pray. An even temper must be maintained at all times- there is no point in claiming any rights.
It was a relief to reach our rather seedy hotel and we celebrated with a good few beers on the steps. Amazing how all seemed right with the world thereafter.
Xi'an was the nucleus of Ancient China. There is evidence of a settlement here in 11th Century BC. It was shot to archeological stardom in 1974 with the discovery of the Terracotta Army of the 1st Emperor of the Qin Dynasty.(More of this World Heritage sight later as we are visiting it tomorrow) So now it is a tourist city of note and a large industrial centre, and boasts 5 star hotels and massive shopping malls.
We set out to explore last night. As we headed into the main thoroughfare to hail a taxi, I noticed that scattered over the pavement were scores of small fires which the locals were feeding with what looked like money! Incredible - but I was to learn that this is a ritual which happens around Halloween time and it is fake money, but the gesture is to ensure riches in the life here-after. Ancient traditions indeed - and within a few minutes we were in downtown Xi'an with its flashing neon lights, its McDonalds, its KFC's and a Starbucks. Towering above all this - richly illuminated are the Drum Tower and the Bell Tower constructed in 12th Century, and now a focus for tourists. In days gone by, the bells heralded the dawn and the drum announced the dusk.
Today it is raining and the grey, sombre, polluted sky is heavier than usual. It is impossible to appreciate the magnificence of the city wall and gates -so I may just have to go shopping! Steaming dumplings for lunch could also be a good idea..
It was a relief to reach our rather seedy hotel and we celebrated with a good few beers on the steps. Amazing how all seemed right with the world thereafter.
Xi'an was the nucleus of Ancient China. There is evidence of a settlement here in 11th Century BC. It was shot to archeological stardom in 1974 with the discovery of the Terracotta Army of the 1st Emperor of the Qin Dynasty.(More of this World Heritage sight later as we are visiting it tomorrow) So now it is a tourist city of note and a large industrial centre, and boasts 5 star hotels and massive shopping malls.
We set out to explore last night. As we headed into the main thoroughfare to hail a taxi, I noticed that scattered over the pavement were scores of small fires which the locals were feeding with what looked like money! Incredible - but I was to learn that this is a ritual which happens around Halloween time and it is fake money, but the gesture is to ensure riches in the life here-after. Ancient traditions indeed - and within a few minutes we were in downtown Xi'an with its flashing neon lights, its McDonalds, its KFC's and a Starbucks. Towering above all this - richly illuminated are the Drum Tower and the Bell Tower constructed in 12th Century, and now a focus for tourists. In days gone by, the bells heralded the dawn and the drum announced the dusk.
Today it is raining and the grey, sombre, polluted sky is heavier than usual. It is impossible to appreciate the magnificence of the city wall and gates -so I may just have to go shopping! Steaming dumplings for lunch could also be a good idea..
Wednesday, October 29, 2008
Lanzhou to Xian
And I was dreading this section ?
I thought it would be all people and trucks- but as luck would have it, we took some detours and saw some of the most beautiful scenery that China has to offer! Also we went into rural areas where Westerners are almost never seen - so there were many rounds of photographs - especially for our young , tall, blond and blue eyed Dutch lady. She is over 6 feet tall and looks like a veritable giant next to the diminutive Chinese.
This is the hilly, terraced part of China which is almost familiar from the many images which we have seen on paintings and photographs. What is not portrayed is the ancient feel it has . The terraces are still hand tilled with the use of wooden ploughs and animals and hand carts, and I am in awe of the physical strength and industrious nature of these farmers.
The cycling has been tremendous fun with good long climbs and exhilirating downhills. Passage through a 2,4km tunnel was also an exciting experience. Needless to say , hands and feet are frozen most of the day. Our early morning departures are often in temperatures just above freezing. Frost covers the ground and our saddles crack with ice at the first perch.
We also had the good fortune of seeing an old Taoist Monastery high on the Kong Tong Mountain. It is a place of great serenity and has pilgrims flocking to feed here off its peace. Taoism is regarded as the only truly Chinese religion and was founded in the 7th century BC .It promotes oneness and harmony between all living things. It has now also incorporated elements of Buddhism which was imported from India just a little later in history. Confuscianism is not really regarded as a religion in China - it is more a philosophy. What does make me smile though is that in the time of Mao and the Cultural Revolution - religion was banned and there was wholesale destruction of all symbols of religion. Now, anything ancient and with religious significance has been restored, upgraded - and promoted to pull in huge tourist dollars!
We are now in the Shaanxi Province - often regarded as the ancient heart of China and where the Communist Party truly took root. Intensive agriculture is all pervading but so is industrialisation - and the smog is horribly noticeable and forever in our nostrils. Many riders are choosing to wear masks over nose and face - a practice which we have seen done by the Chinese locals increasingly. It does make me feel uneasy though - some serious moves have to be made to keep our global air clean....
I thought it would be all people and trucks- but as luck would have it, we took some detours and saw some of the most beautiful scenery that China has to offer! Also we went into rural areas where Westerners are almost never seen - so there were many rounds of photographs - especially for our young , tall, blond and blue eyed Dutch lady. She is over 6 feet tall and looks like a veritable giant next to the diminutive Chinese.
This is the hilly, terraced part of China which is almost familiar from the many images which we have seen on paintings and photographs. What is not portrayed is the ancient feel it has . The terraces are still hand tilled with the use of wooden ploughs and animals and hand carts, and I am in awe of the physical strength and industrious nature of these farmers.
The cycling has been tremendous fun with good long climbs and exhilirating downhills. Passage through a 2,4km tunnel was also an exciting experience. Needless to say , hands and feet are frozen most of the day. Our early morning departures are often in temperatures just above freezing. Frost covers the ground and our saddles crack with ice at the first perch.
We also had the good fortune of seeing an old Taoist Monastery high on the Kong Tong Mountain. It is a place of great serenity and has pilgrims flocking to feed here off its peace. Taoism is regarded as the only truly Chinese religion and was founded in the 7th century BC .It promotes oneness and harmony between all living things. It has now also incorporated elements of Buddhism which was imported from India just a little later in history. Confuscianism is not really regarded as a religion in China - it is more a philosophy. What does make me smile though is that in the time of Mao and the Cultural Revolution - religion was banned and there was wholesale destruction of all symbols of religion. Now, anything ancient and with religious significance has been restored, upgraded - and promoted to pull in huge tourist dollars!
We are now in the Shaanxi Province - often regarded as the ancient heart of China and where the Communist Party truly took root. Intensive agriculture is all pervading but so is industrialisation - and the smog is horribly noticeable and forever in our nostrils. Many riders are choosing to wear masks over nose and face - a practice which we have seen done by the Chinese locals increasingly. It does make me feel uneasy though - some serious moves have to be made to keep our global air clean....
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