Tremendous Turkey

It ıs delıcıously hot, people are extraordınarıly frıendly and generous and ın the last 6 days I have gasped at the changıng terraın( also on some of the massıve hılls as I chug ever upwards}
We have made our way, from Istanbul, averagıng 110km per day ınıtıally along the Black Sea Coast lıne where the hılls are huge and well wooded and the rural vıstas fılled wıth folk at work ın the fıelds and tendıng massıve hazelnut plantatıons. Decıduous fruıt abounds and we are spoıled for choıce - apples, plums , peaches melons, pears, quınces, grapes watermelon and fantastıc blood red juıcy tomatoes.
The standard drınk ıs tea - also grown along the Black Sea coast [Turkısh coffee was only somethıng common at the tıme of the Ottoman Empıre - sadly so I am havıng wıthdrawal symptoms} It ıs served ın tıny tulıp shaped glasses and ıs almost a form of greetıng.
We are now ın a town called Osmancık whıch ıs on a hıgh, dry plateau through whıch runs a large rıver along whıch rıce ıs cultıvated. Such contrasts- and thıs holds true ın so many thıngs ın Turkey. It ıs a secular country but almost all ıts people are devout Muslıms and object to not wearıng the headscarves whıch the government does not allow ın schools and offıces. There ıs a strong sense of communıty and carıng for one another - but anımals are neglected. Alcohol ıs sold ın any corner cafe- but you cannot be seen to be drınkıng ıt ın sıght of any publıc. I am fındıng ıt so fascınatıng and we have a hıstory boff wıth us who ıs educatıng me.
As far as my dutıes - I have had work every day so far - medıcally speakıng and have also seen the workıngs of a Turkısh hospıtal as our tour leader was knocked off hıs bıke by a truck. The most tıme consumıng part of the exercıse was the completıon of the polıce report - rıght down to the patıents Mothers maıden name! But ıt all came- Xray ıncluded at no charge, and no waıt and we got served tea ın the bargaın.
My rıdıng dutıes are to be the sweep rıder - so I am learnıng a new style and thoroughly enjoyıng the tıme to stop, take photos and mıngle wıth the locals.
We are lookıng forward to our fırst rest day and I may progress - wıth help to postıng photos on thıs sıte. Masterıng the Turkısh keyboard has been a challenge ın ıtself
Lots of love to all and know that ı do mıss you
Joan

Istanbul =andhow to get ripped off in Turkish

I knew I was in for a run around after my arrival in this very beautiful and vibrant city = but not this badly! I tried to keep a cool head as I cruised from airport to cargo to government office to freight company dishing out cash at evry turn= all with a willing but very reckless taxi driver.
Fimally with my bag in sight I was instructed to return to the very first office
as I had to pay the freight= again! This despite me providing written proof of payment in SA/
No logic prevailed and I also grew stubborn and even tried the tearful option. No luck/
Phone CapeTown = they said. I refused as I had the printout of my electronic payment/
Suddenly = OK pay storage only/ What I cried = bag has only been here less than 24 hours/
You MUST pay for 2 days = Lira 99
Please make it one
OK = Lira 98
I knew I was beaten and I left with a dry mouth an tachycardia after forking out the required bribe/
So I am smiling again and tomorrowthe sun will be shining and I will go on a ferry across the Bosphorus and know that I am a little more travel wise and lucky to be seeing all this/
Stay well and thanks to all those who have sent words of encouragement

Blast off!

I write this in a state of high anxiety. Flight leaves for Istanbul in a few hours - and luckily-I am clutching my passport with Chineses visa in my paw! The attempts of shutting down my life for a 4 month absence have been exhausting and at times unsuccesful- like trying to shut a hyper-active cat into a cardboard box. When you think you are done - it is still mournfully howling.
Thanks to all my friends and Family and especially Estelle from whose house I depart, having used her studio as a pack shed.
I will give this my best shot, will keep my eyes, heart and brain wide open, will try to avoid obvious obstacles and not look for trouble!
I hope to return with many more points of wonder to marvel at and give thanks for this incredible life we have.
I will think so often of home, South Africa and all the people therein whom I love
Au Revoir and Tot siens

Route information

I do realise that my route through Central Asia is a mystery to most - How do we avoid being caught in the crossfire in Afghanistan, abducted by renegades in Iran. freeze solid in the Karakorum Mountains in Pakistan? My recent readings has made it clear to me that the "Silk Route" is not a single road. Over the centuries trade has flourished and waned, often due to political stresses and warring, and the routes taken by merchants with silk, jade, amber and even rhubarb have had to alter accordingly. Our route in 2008 is no different and we are endouvouring to avoid all the potential hot spots. The details are displayed on the website of the Tour d'Afrique website at www.tourdafrique.com
It has loads of information - just click on the top heading of Silk Route and get very jealous!!

6 days to go!!

Life certainly has a way of stretching one to the limit.
I have returned from a week in Cape Town which was to be an orderly arrangement of my business in preparation of my absconding from normal responsibilities for 4 months. It was not to be. My dear Mother -in-law Chenda Haw died peacefully at aged 90 and the week was spent paying tribute to her abundant and admirable life and gathering all 9 granchildren from all corners of the world for her funeral celebration. She was afforded a rousing and emotional send off.
I, when time permitted packed my bag for the 4 months ahead and sent it off airfreight to Istanbul wondering if I should ever be so lucky as to be re-united with it. It was jam packed with camping gear and bike spares and the barest essentials in the clothing line.
My battle to procure visas continues but my passport has emerged from Cental Asia complete with visas from Azerbijan, Uzbekistan, Krygystan and Turkmenistan. China wants me to produce R1000 for each day that I am in China --- and I am in China for 72 days --- so negotiations are still in progress.
It is at anxious times like this when I gaze around at the peace of my beautiful Knysna surroundings, that I have to remind myself that this will all be worth the effort and that the most incredible and wondrous experiences lie just ahead of me---- and a little bravery is needed to just get there.