From Turpan

I am at the lowest point of my life - only literally speaking as Turpan lies 156metres below sea level.
It also holds another honour- that of being the hottest town in China. The highest recorded temperature is 49.3 degrees C and average summer temperatures are 38 degrees C. They say it only rains once every 10 years - and remarkably - we got caught in that rain on our bikes.
It was incredibly exciting as strong winds buffetted us as we were on a 50km downhill into the Turpan depression, and dark, ominous looking clouds collected overhead. The air grew heavy and humid and suddenly - the rain and that magnificent post rain smell. It was short lived- and we soon stripped off the rain gear, and were sweating again, as the clouds lifted, wind died, and all felt fresh and light.
Turpan is a laid back, easy going place that survives on a system of underground water channels. These are called karez- and the idea is thought to have originated 2000 years ago in Iran. The underground network covers a distance of 3000km and taps the water from the snow melt of the Tian Shen mountains.Wells tap the water at regular intervals and miles and miles of agriculture are dependant on this source. These channels have all been dug by hand and the locals are justly very proud of the system.
Were it not for this ingenious water supply - the Turpan depression would be dry as a bone, windswept and featureless. Now its boulevards are covered by leafy, cool grape vines and the towns folk while away the hours sipping cold drinks, and playing cards while watching the world go slowly by. We have easily slipped into this commendable past-time.
Turpan is also famous for its dried green grapes. At the town's edge there are many square brick structures with aeration walls. Herein the grapes are dried and as they are not exposed to direct sunlight, they remain a gorgeous green colour. They are very high in sugar content, due to the conditions of extreme heat and plentiful water in which they grow.
Now the vines are turning brown slowly. This week is a week of celebration as National China Day was 1st October, and it also marks the end of Ramadan. Winter looms, and so now is a time for outdoor celebration and feasting.
Tomorrow our rest ends as we climb out of this low point of the world, back to the vast exspances of desert.
I know we will have thoughts of those cool leafy boulevards, as we huff, puff and sweat or way up, on our journey eastwards to Beijing.