Thursday, August 21, 2008

The adventure rolls on-

Ok - for some this may not be considered an adventure. It could be cause for getting grumpy.
We waited all day yesterday in temperatures above 40 degrees C at the grubby dock side along with queues of unwashed truckers playing Backgammon.
The ferry was leaving at 1.00pm, 4.00pm or 6.00pm - and infact it never left at all. It seeems explanaitions are not really necessary - but a story drifted through that it was not full enough- the train cargo from Georgia had not got through because of the war - so they were waiting to fill the ferry.
It is leaving today - for sure- maybe, at a time not yet disclosed. Any attempt to get close and view loading operations are met with a stern face from a policeman and a gesture implying -
" Push off". It all feels rather Russian.
I will be sleeping on the dock tonight if we do not leave as we are taking turns to guard the luggage and bikes.
The best part of this is - if seen in a positive light- it is a gift of a day. No agenda, no commitments, just time to use reading, observing, snoozing- all in an environment of anomnity.
Naturally - I am itching to get going but I have done justice to the Azerbaijan guide book.
One fascinating snippet. It is these that for me makes travel so addictive and fills in gaps of knowlege.
The Nobel brothers - one of whom was the founder of the famous prize- came to Baku, Azerbaijan in search of Rifle butts. On arrival they saw the opportunity of establishing themselves in the oil business - in1910, Azerbaijan was producing more than 50% of the worlds oil. They prospered and much of the wealth needed for the Nobel prize originated from here. They also saw what a dismal desert dry place Baku was and they wished to have familiar trees of their Swedish homeland. So they persuaded the government of the time to impose a tax on all oil tankers returning empty - if they came back with topsoil, they were not taxed! This topsoil was then used to create the gracious gardens of Baku which still shade the streets today. The first irrigation system for these gardens was from the condenswed water emitting as steam from the oil plants. Later a canal was built from the high country in Russia.
When I read things like this I am overwhelmed at how truly remarkable the world and its peoples are!
Here's hoping that the next time I write - it will be from Turkmenistan.
Thanks for the emails and comments - please keep them rolling - it makes me feel closer to home

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