Azerbaijan

It is an odd feeling to be cycling in a country which was previously part of the mighty USSR.
I am in Central Asia!
I have a little photo essay in my head which I will post on my blog as soon as I get more time on the internet - which is far from easily available here- and in the meantime , a few impressions.
This country does seem to be in need of a helping hand. It apparantly has massive deposits of oil and natural gas, but many of the rights have been sold to massive Western companies such as BP and the profits seem to have made the fat cats fatter and the poor folk remain eeking out a living.
We cycled on the main road from west to east and saw an amazing change of countryside.
It was a spectacular sight to have the Greater Caucasus mountains to the north and the Lessser Caucasus mountains to the south. The flat area between them seemed very fertile and well wooded with deciduous forests and every kind of nut tree. Animal husbadry is also a prevalent pastime and we shared the road with goats, cows. water buffalos, sheep horses and donkeys.
As we moved futher east the country became rather arid and desolate and very very hot.
The roads seem in a constant state of repair and the going was quite tough. The drivers are reckless and love their hooters, but generally folk are freindly and generous and I was often treated to a pear or an apple along the way. Cars are 90% the Russian made Ladas and they are used as bakkies- often loaded to the roof with melons, cabbages, lucerne - even sheep.
The approach to Baku is horrible.
Dry, dusty and dangerous and the last 20km we rode in a convoy. We are staying in an very ropey hotel far from the city centre- an aging, delapidated soviet' gem' Trash blows around continuously and I am so pleased that Louise and I made the effort to visit the Old City which is gracious, and elegant and being well restored ( partially I understand by UNESCO as it is a World Heritage site. ) So Baku did live have its heyday , and it was an important port along the Silk Route.
We hope to leave on a ferry tomorrow - but it seems that in this part of the world - even reservations do not secure your passage - and the ferry goes only when it is full. If there are storms at sea it is cancelled for days/
So we may have more days yet to enjoy Baku!