Our entry into this massive city of millions of busy people, was seriously hazardous to say the least. There are road rules - on paper only - and anything goes. Cars, trucks, busses, bikes, 3 wheelers, scooters and pedestrians vie for the available gap. The trick seems to be to keep a steady forward pace, make no sudden moves, avoid eye contact- and pray. An even temper must be maintained at all times- there is no point in claiming any rights.
It was a relief to reach our rather seedy hotel and we celebrated with a good few beers on the steps. Amazing how all seemed right with the world thereafter.
Xi'an was the nucleus of Ancient China. There is evidence of a settlement here in 11th Century BC. It was shot to archeological stardom in 1974 with the discovery of the Terracotta Army of the 1st Emperor of the Qin Dynasty.(More of this World Heritage sight later as we are visiting it tomorrow) So now it is a tourist city of note and a large industrial centre, and boasts 5 star hotels and massive shopping malls.
We set out to explore last night. As we headed into the main thoroughfare to hail a taxi, I noticed that scattered over the pavement were scores of small fires which the locals were feeding with what looked like money! Incredible - but I was to learn that this is a ritual which happens around Halloween time and it is fake money, but the gesture is to ensure riches in the life here-after. Ancient traditions indeed - and within a few minutes we were in downtown Xi'an with its flashing neon lights, its McDonalds, its KFC's and a Starbucks. Towering above all this - richly illuminated are the Drum Tower and the Bell Tower constructed in 12th Century, and now a focus for tourists. In days gone by, the bells heralded the dawn and the drum announced the dusk.
Today it is raining and the grey, sombre, polluted sky is heavier than usual. It is impossible to appreciate the magnificence of the city wall and gates -so I may just have to go shopping! Steaming dumplings for lunch could also be a good idea..
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2 comments:
Gala and I have been reading your excellent blog off and on with great interest. Strange that even with a full week headstart over our dates last year, you are running into just as much cold it would seem and more wet. Anyway, the riding truly is easier from here provided you don't get lost too often. D. Sly
You make it all sound so interesting. Glad you were treated for your birthday! Happy riding and hope the dumplings were good. Love Di
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