Backroad delights and other things

The last few days have found us very relieved to be off the main truck drags and onto little used country roads where my old Chariot of Fire Mountain bike really comes into its own.
Eastern Turkey feels much more desolate, poorer, more conservative but has the towering mountains, wide open spaces and big sky which delights my soul.
Along with increasing poverty comes a few negatives- folk begging from these strange white folk on bikes who just by virtue of being there must be very affluent. It is an experience I have had in any emerging country and when it is woman and children who are stretching out their hands - it saddens and discomforts me, and leaves me with a feeling of helplessness to reach a solution.
At a lunch stop we were approached by a young friendly man whose manner was a little disquieting - but I presumed it was just my being sensitive. His wife and a bunch of scraggly kids hovered in the background and on their departure- to our dismay, we discovered that Theresa- our driver- had her bag stolen from the seat of the van. Disaster as it contained money cards passorts and all those difficult to replace travel items. The police proved to be efficient and sympathetic but on showing them photos of the young man - they immediately identified him as a gypsy. " A good Turk would never do such a thing" they exclaimed.
But my moments of wonder continue. I have discovered White Mulberries which the locals dry to make a delightful snack. Beehives abound all over the countryside - and are ofcourse very necessary to supply enough of the golden stuff to drench all those Baclava. Breakfast also usually comes with a saucer of honey and piles of fresh crusty bread with which to mop it up.
Apricots also lie drying in the sun as the farmers harvest walnuts and almonds, apples and pears.
We have a bunch of very dedicated cyclists and although many days have been long and hard- only one rider so far has not completed the distance.
The oldest guy is a wonderful ornithologist Dutchman called Joost and he and I spend a lot otf time riding together as he is slow but very dogged and determined and amazing. Needless to say - I am the oldest woman.
We are at present on a well deserved rest day in an ancient town called Yusufeli which is situated deep in a valley where the river Coruh hurtles through. It is a stop off point for backpackers who wish to river raft. Only a few more days in Turkey until we cross the border to Georgia.
I think that communications may taper off a bit from here on - but please keep the comments rolling and I will reply as I can. I love the idea that I am able to share with you a little in all these wonderful thoughts and experiences.
Medically - so far so good...... ( that is apart from my old arthritic hip! Luckily no problem on a bike)