Today I stood on a triangular windswept plateau and gazed across a deep gorge along the edge of which ran an ugly,vicious looking, towering barbed- wire fence. On the other side lay Armenia marked by two massive, sombre- grey manned sentry posts. I was standing in Ani, once a thriving city of 100,000 people and the capital of Armenia; now a rather vacant meloncholy set of ruins.
Armenia and Turkey have a long and painful history of conflict and to date there is no open border beween them. However, Ani has the remains some of the most amazingly beautiful ecclesiastical and military architecture of its time, but up until about 10 years ago it was a "no go" area, traversed only by military personel. Turkey has not been too interested in the ruins of its age old enemy- no matter how archeologically unique- but tourism is starting to change this. The Seljuk Palace has been meticulously rebuilt. It is the only indesputably Islamic building at Ani and is therefore an example of "ultranationalistic archeology"
I spent a wonderful few hours here gazing in wonder at the fine stone work, and detailed frescos and stone carving adorning the remains of churches, cathedrals, and also mosques, as this ancient city, established in 961 AD, has been resident to Armenians, Byzantines, Seljuks and other clans. At one point Ani even rivalled Baghdad and Constantinople, and it was a major trading point of the Silk Route The Mongols raided in the 13th century, causing great damage and then a major earthquake in 1319 struck the final blow.
The remains of the Kale or castle is perched at the highest point and there flies a massive Turkish flag - just to remind the Armenians who is in control..
I walked slowly back to the bus, quite moved by the magnificence of buildings, some constucted one thousand years ago, and how hostilities between nations have resulted in their neglect. I also paused to think of the bloodshed and violence erupting a mere 200km to the north in Georgia. I understand that 2000 folk have been killed and refugees trying to get back to Russia are the worst hit- and I find it very difficult to understand the real reasons for this new unleashing of military force. And life here in Northern Turkey is totally unperturbed.
So we head off on a 14 hour bus trip to Ankara tomorrow. It feels very odd not to be mounting my bike.
Pictures of Ani to follow soon
PS My jamfam@telkomsa.net email address seems to be having problems.
I can be contacted via blog or at jonoloza@yahoo.com
Thanks to you all who send comments on the blog - will try to answer soon. May have time on my hands in Ankara.
Stay well and take care in this crazy world.
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1 comment:
The dear Turks won't admit to this day that they massacred half the Armenian population in 1915. And the deliberate neglect of non-Islamic relics is blatantly evident official policy for the rest of the country. But they want to join the EU, who might just be stupid enough to let them in.
On this positive note, over and out.
Hope you won't get fleeced too much getting to Baku. Cheers
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