Bukhara

Our ride into this,Central Asia's holiest city, was an ordeal, but the reward was great as it offers a true glimpse of gracious pre- Russian Usbekistan.
Our border crossing from Turkmenistan into Uzbekistan meant that we started peddalling at noon, with still 100km to go - and the head wind was vicious. As the sun was starting to set, on the outskirts of the city, we spied blue domes and minarets. It had a magical, mysterious feel accentuated by the fading light.
Daylight, and a quick taxi ride into the Old City, revealed sights quite breathtaking. The centre of the city is crammed with medrassas, mosques, royal fortresses and a once vast market complex which served the travellers and traders of the Silk Road. It was also a centre of learning and of the arts, and despite being bombarded by Monguls and Russians amoungst others- its magnificent architecture has survived and is being lovingly restored.
Tourism is in its infancy - but there is unfortunately evidence showing of all the bad aspects - like being hassled by vendors and folk demanding money for photographs.
The Kalon Minaret built in 1127, probably (then) the tallest building in Central Asia, is an incredible piece of work. Despite numerous earthquakes it has needed only cosmetic repairs. Its strength is reputed to be in the mortar which was made from blood and camels milk. Even Genghis Khan was so astounded by it that he ordered it to be spared as he laid waste the remainder of the city.
However- amidst all this spendour lies a violent and bloody history. Criminals were hurled to their deaths from the top of the minaret and the evil Emir Nasrullah Khan was responsible for beheading Colonel Stoddart and Captain Conolly in 1842. They were even made to dig their own graves and they met their doom in front of the Ark ( Emirs Palace) and crowds of rowdy onlookers. The two British officers were players in "The Great Game"- which was the name given to all the exploration and spying in Central Asia-that went on between England and Russia as they fought to secure/extend their empires.England was particularly anxious to keep Russia as far away from the Indian frontier as possible - so there were lots of pacts, promises and lies and battles in the areas which are now Afghanistan, Iran, and in all the massive mountainous areas between.
The colour was also stiking in Bukhara. Streets are lined with carpet vendors and there are also beautiful hand embroidered clothes and clothes. Exquisitely dressed puppets are also an old tradition. Metal work is also an ancient art which is passed down the generations and proudly practiced.
This was a wonderful respite and left us all with a feeling of grace and beauty. The images from "1000 and 1 nights" are real.