Saturday, September 20, 2008

High in China

We have made it to Kashgar (1200 metres) - the most western city in China and also the city in the world which is furthest away from any sea! China also means hugely improved internet comminication and as we have a rest day tomorrow - I will fill in a few details as to where we have been for the last 2 weeks. For now - a short piece composed in my head as we cycled through the Irkestam Pass between Kyrgestan and China.

I am high in China- high in every sense of the word- elevation, mood, spirit.
The climb on the Talgit Pass in Kyrgestan, up to our highest elevation of 3650metres, was fairly gruelling. It consists of 14 massive switchbacks - and the road is shared with a myriad of trucks, some with as many as 22 wheels, all headed for China. As a result the gravel road is churned up and rendered a dust bowl, interspursed with rough boulders. The air got noticeably thin and in between gasps, the views took even more of my breathe away! Quite indescribable and exhilirating but chasing us up the pass was a snow storm so temperatures were rapidly dropping . The race down the other side was freezing and luckily we were able to stay in a yurt( nomad style felt tent) that night, so were pretty cozy.
Next morning as I crept out in all the foul weather gear I possessed, the temperature read 4 degrees C and wind chill factor was added once on the bike. But my mood was untouchable by mere physical discomfort. Towering above me were snow covered peaks of the Pamir Range reaching up to more than 6000 metres- and they seemed to stretch interminably into the far distance. Shepherds were herding their sheep, goats, cattle and horses down to lower altitudes for the winter, and generally there was an air of urgency to get battened down for the pending snows. Silver ribbons of water snaked deep in the valleys as we climbed again to our last high campsite in Kyrgestan, 20 km from the Chinese border, and as I lay tucked deep in my down bag that night, listening to the howling snow bearing wind - I felt distinctly privileged /
The border crossing for now will go unrecorded. Suffice to say - it was an exercise in hurry up and wait - and having to endure officiousness and beaurocracy taken to new heights.
Into China. The mountains here- the Tien Shen, have an arid starkness and made me think a little of the Kaokoveld. I was in my element, and as the road downhill was now a superb paved one, my spirit soared, I gave thanks for good health and strong legs, thought of my wonderful family and friends- and clocked 75km per hour. Whew!!!

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