Friday, September 26, 2008

The Livestock Market in Kashgar

Dawn is breaking and we are headed at breakneck speed in a rickety taxi, to the Animal Market in Kashgar.
I notice all along the freeway in every form of vehicular transport- animals-bundled up together- sheep with donkeys, with goats, in the back of trucks, on 3 wheeled bicycle carriers, on animal drawn carts- all facing the same fate- new owners, or the pot.
We approach a rising cloud of dust with shards of sunlight feebly trying to pierce through the haze. Below is a milling mass of men and animals, and the air is filled with bleating, whinneying, stomping and yelling. Loud shouting erupts to the left. A donkey cart going at full tilt has overturned and the donkey performed an almost perfect cartwheel, in full harness. I am shocked. A dead donkey for sure I think - but no- a few kicks here and there and the donkey strains to rise, head comes up and he is resigned to his fate of hauling the heavy load again.
A scuffle behind me alerts me to a huge onerary Bactrian Camel, pulling at his harness and wheeling around in anger. I quickly move away- to some more action. A magnificent black stallion is pawing at the dirt and letting fly with back legs. As he does this- his harness bedecked with bells and ornaments jingles merrily.
The energy is contagious. I love this working market where the vendors are hauling out huge wads of cash and arguing with potential buyers as they feel, stoke, prod and sniff the available merchandise. The smaller animals like the goats and sheep stand quietly as they are virtually spliced together at the head. They are sold in " rope lengths". Greater numbers are crammed together in movable camps.
My heart goes out to the larger animals - the cows and bulls who are brought in the back of lorries - and then have to make a wild leap to get to earth. There is very little concern for their safety or suffering.....
I wander off fromthe main animal section and bump into a few pale and dazed looking tourists - all clicking away furiously. This is indeed an unrepeatable, if not exhausting experience.
My final action is to purchase a part of a donkey harness- highly decorated and with bells. It is all in preparation for the donkeys I am hankering after for my Harmony in Knysna.
Well - one has to start somewhere!!!???

1 comment:

lynnette and Fritz said...

Hey Joano, before you get anything donkey-like for the Knysna ranch, we have to pass on a deep and meaningful statement by old friend Theo from Hillcrest, who said "I don't trust anything that eats while I'm sleeping."
Yours sincerely