Samarkand - The Fourth Paradise

"And I have not told the half of it"
These are the words of Marco Polo on his return from his epic Silk Road travels - and it is just how I feel about Samarkand.
This city reached its zenith under the famous, notoriously cruel ruler, Tamerlane (1336-1405). He is now, needless to say revered and given almost saint like status - but it must not be forgotton that during his reign, when he ruled over an area that extended from Constantinople, to India to China and up into Russia, he was responsible for the deaths of 17 million people. That is more than Hitler or Stalin could be held to.
However- he was determined to make Samarkand the "Centre of the Universe" and he brought in artisans and architects from all over the world, and he encouraged the arts and scientific learning. The result is a huge central square in the old city above which soars magical feats of architecture in the mosques and medrassas surrounding it. Many have been damaged badly by earthquakes and mans warring stupidity, but even Lenin saw the value in restoring them and began work in this direction in 1922.
Tamerlane's grandson was Ulagh Beg who was a famous astronomer whose star chart done in the early 1400's served as the basis of all navigational charts in the 17th Century.He also calculated the length of the year to within a minute of what we use today. Unfortunately - his scientific leanings went contrary to the religious zealots of the time - so he had his head chopped off.
So I have been seriously educated in Samarkand.We have also eaten well and savoured all the local dishes. The average (male) Uzbeki goes out for lunch and eats Plov- washed down by vast quantities of vodka. Not surprising that afternoons dont seem very productive. The evening meal consists of huge quantities of meat cooked on an open fire on a skewer, and known as Shashlyk. There are always piles of fresh bread, obtained from the female vendors who sell from converted baby carriages which are pushed along at high speed by the youngest boy in the family.
The young students all look very disciplined and respectable in dark trousers and ties and all school kids throughout the country wear the same uniform- and it is always immaculate. It had me wondering if this is the stern, disciplinarian, Russian influence. A group of western schoolkids and students would definately show more individualism and open rebellion. But then Uzbekistan is not known for allowing much freedom of political or philosphical thought - and has insencenced the world over police violence and supression of dissidents.
So my eyes are opening ever wider and my head bursts with all this new knowlege. I am also so enjoying the rural days on my bike- and look forward to heading east tomorrow - into Tajikistan